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Posts tagged Northern Territory
An outback adventure (part 2)

A return to civilisation and time to pick up another adventurer, Geoff's friend Richard. A night out on the town in Alice and a bed at the local backpackers, before we prepared for the arduous return trip to Melbourne. Perhaps arduous isn't the right word, as it implies a difficult and tiresome journey - when the truth is I loved it! The plan for our return trip was to take the Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail and then the Oodnadatta Track. This leg of the trip would be far more barren in its scenery, but no less amazing a journey.  There were times when Geoff followed a trail, when i wondered if there was in fact a trail to even follow. But he seemed to know where he was going, even when I had my doubts. 

This leg of the trip, the weather began to turn and towards the end making some of the camping not as pleasurable as it had been previously. Sleeping in a tent inundated with water is not the most enjoyable experience! The one saving grace was having a camp fire, which could always warm me and my spirits. 

The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail

The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail

The track to the heritage trail took us through some cattle stations that were so vast, they felt like wastelands that have been long forgotten. It only reinforced how much distance existed between us and "civilisation". The landscape was unyielding and isolating, with fence lines creating boundaries and order to wayward cattle and traveller.  Ruins were scattered along the way, a reminder of the harsh realities of remote outback living and a time long since passed, providing a glimpse not only into the history of the Ghan railway but also colonisation. 

The route alongside the Finke Desert Race track

The route alongside the Finke Desert Race track

Some of the trail follows the route for the Finke Desert race. There was something wonderful about being on the trail - the dirt was a vibrant orange and the endless amount of space, gave me the sense of being an infinitesimal speck, putting many things back into perspective. 

We stopped in the township of Finke. A quiet town in the middle of nowhere, where I did not see a single person! I'm not saying that it is strange, but it felt a little strange. A red dusty town - unique, arid and austere.  From here, we crossed the border from NT to SA, making our way to Witjira National Park

The border - NT & SA

The border - NT & SA

Witjira National Park located in South Australia, sits on the western edge of the Simpson Desert. So, I'm going to claim that as another place that I have (kinda/sorta) been to! Witjira boasts a number of natural artesian springs located in the park, in particular Dalhousie Springs. The springs are warm and inviting and after a swim I couldn't help but feel rejuvenated and refreshed. The park itself has facilities for camping, however the disappointing thing was that we could not have a fire there. I think that this comes back to the fact that the native scrub in the area is depleted and under threat due to over use. With no camp fire, this left me exposed to the local predator - the mosquito. No fire, darkness and a vitamin B deficiency made me mosquito bait for those flying carnivores! I had to bid my travelling companions an early good night - I was being eaten alive! After an early retreat to my tent, we headed off the next day towards the ruins.

Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park SA

Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park SA

Ruins - Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park SA

Ruins - Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park SA

The buildings at Dalhousie were built somewhere between 1872 and 1885. The shell only remains now, but they really don't make buildings like they used to, do they? After taking a step back into history and a harsher time, we made our way to Oodnadatta and the iconic Pink Roadhouse.

A toilet break, some cream to ease my itching mozzie bites, a cold drink and an ice cream in Oodnadatta were just what I needed!  Whilst having a chill at the roadhouse, Geoffrey was kind enough to play us a tune and our Geoff even joined in with the yidaki. 

Geoffrey - The Pink Roadhouse, Oodnadatta SA

Geoffrey - The Pink Roadhouse, Oodnadatta SA

Geoff playing the yidaki/didgeridoo

Geoff playing the yidaki/didgeridoo

A bit of a tune and a stretch of the legs and we were back on the road. This time, heading towards Algebuckina Bridge for lunch. 

The bridge is located near the Neales River. There are several graves of those who built the bridge nearby, who died from working in extreme weather conditions. The bridge was closed in 1981 and now is a rest stop for tourists making the intrepid journey through Central Australia.

Algebuckina Bridge

Algebuckina Bridge

I took a stroll along the river bank and what was disappointing to see, was so much rubbish and waste that people had discarded in their travels. The one rule we have is to leave a place as you found it - to take your rubbish with you when you leave; to ensure no trace of you is left behind so that other people can enjoy it as much as you. 

After trying to eat my sandwich, without eating a fly, we embarked on the next leg of our trip to get to camp. The weather forecast rain and storms, we looked at accomodation in William Creek but due to it being last minute the cost was too much for us. So we maintained our initial plan of, camping on a red sand dune.  

Red sand dune - William Creek 

Red sand dune - William Creek 

We set up camp with tents surrounding the fire. The three of us stayed up to share in a few drinks, having a laugh and unwinding from a busy week. I left the two boys to their bourbon and retired to bed  trying not to wake my tent buddy.  2AM and I am woken by strong winds; a light dapple of rain which promised to turn torrential; and, the boys wanting to wake the rest of the camp up as we made the last minute decision to leave. Leave now or be stuck should the Oodnadatta track be closed.

As I am writing this, I realise that there was more to the return leg of the trip then first realised. Because the next day, we made our way to the Southern part of Lake Eyre. I would have liked to walk on Lake Eyre but we had limited time and the distance to get to the actual lake was too far to make in a timely fashion. 

All aboard next stop, Flinders Ranges! We made it just in time for a late afternoon stop before camp at Brachina Gorge; then a quick walk through Wilpena Pound before much deserved showers and food. The night brought with it terrible weather, so much so, I resorted to sleeping in the car with Richard in the front seat snoring like a beast! It was loud and uncomfortable and needless to say, I got very little sleep that night. 

Campfire at Halls Gap VIC

Campfire at Halls Gap VIC

When you document it all, it is surprising how far you get in a day. The next day, we made our way through Peterborough, Renmark and our camp spot in the Grampians.  

Another rainy night, but we had two roaring fires! I really do love a good camp fire - sitting around it, soaking up the warmth with good company, it's how I always remember camping. Even with bad weather, I braved it in the tent, whilst the three girls on our trip decided that the car was safer. Apart from a little water log and some strange noises in the middle of the night, I had a fitful sleep.

Our last camp morning was spent around the fire enjoying those last fleeting moments of wilderness that we knew were about to come to a halting end. With hot coffee, damper and the sun on my face on what felt like a cold winters day was invigorating. However, the harsh reality was, the trip was almost over - our outback adventure was over!

An outback adventure (part 1)
our travels

Late February, I took a flight into Melbourne to meet a friend of mine. There was a plan in the making, an idea taking shape for the future. We were doing a test run for an outback adventure - a two and a half week trip, four wheel driving through some of Australia's most rugged and beautiful landscapes. On a rough calculation, the return journey was about 5,765kms, maybe more! An amazing effort for my friend, seasoned professional and four wheel driving expert.

Our journey began in the inner city suburb of Carlton, car packed up, we set off. The first leg was from Melbourne to Adelaide. We stopped here overnight, before making our way to Coober Pedy. I do need to admit that any road trip with me, is always going to be filled with stops and detours. For some it can get a bit tedious, but lucky for me, my travelling companion (Geoff) also has an adventurous spirit.

On route to Coober Pedy, we made a few stops along the way - a road side rest stop to check out Island Lagoon in the distance, lunch at Lake Hart and we even stopped to watch amazing rain clouds forming in the distance. 

Island Lagoon, SA

Island Lagoon, SA

Lake Hart SA

Lake Hart SA

In Coober Pedy, we took an Opal mine tour at Umoona Opal Mine.  I had a sense of dread and foreboding heading down into the  underground mine. I think it was just a bout of claustrophobia because soon after the tour began, I seemed to forget my concerns and began to really enjoy myself. The venue also offered accommodations which were underground dug outs. I think when in Coober Pedy, you should afford yourself the opportunity of staying underground. It is part of life in this remote desert town and it is a unique experience to be had.

Overlooking the dugout chimneys

Overlooking the dugout chimneys

Standing atop the dugouts

Standing atop the dugouts

Inside the Umoona Opal Mine

Inside the Umoona Opal Mine

From Coober Pedy, Geoff made a special stop for me - The Breakaways. This place is an arid landscape with startling rock formations and stony deserts coloured in tones of autumn - brown, orange, red and rust create a striking colour palette. Well worth the detour!

The Breakaways

The Breakaways

After our detour, it was a long drive to Uluru. I really wanted to make sunset! Alas, it was an overcast evening and there was no sun or sunset in sight. Even so, my mood could not be dampened. Whilst watching the last remnants of light fade away and cast the rock in darkness, we enjoyed our barbecue dinner. After dinner we drove to a new location and camped wild, slept in tents with a fire blazing. This would be the first night of many, camping in remote areas, cocooned by fire and the night sky to watch over us. It was whilst away from the city, with the darkness and eerie cacophony of dingos thick around us, where I began to feel replenished and whole again. 

Driving towards an off the beaten track campsite

Driving towards an off the beaten track campsite

Camping underneath the stars, near Kings Canyon

Camping underneath the stars, near Kings Canyon

Sun showers and sunrise at Uluru

Sun showers and sunrise at Uluru

Whilst visiting the National Park area, we did all the iconic stops. We returned for sunrise at Uluru. Before heading to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) and eventually Kings Canyon. I've done them before but the place holds such mystery and beauty, it's worth the return visit. 

After visiting the big three of Central Australia, we made our way to the West Macdonnell Ranges. This was particularly exciting for me, as I had not done this area before! Part of our route was a dusty unsealed road (recommended for four wheel drives) and this added to the feeling of isolation and escape. Slowly there was a change in scenery, it went from dark red earthy tones to hues of green and yellow. The outback an ever changing canvas of colour. We camped along the sandy banks of the Finke River, close to the waters edge. With no one around us, we were able to enjoy the serenity of the place. In the afternoon, we made the very short trip to Glen Helen Gorge, where I headed down to the waters edge to photograph the cliffs at sunset. Completely alone, I stood in the water with my camera gear set up and was blown away by the intense beauty. The red rock ridges illuminated by the afternoon sun, creating light and shadow were breath taking. Definitely one to add to the bucket list!

West Macdonnell Ranges NT

West Macdonnell Ranges NT

The Finke River

The Finke River

Camping on the Finke River

Camping on the Finke River

Glen Helen Gorge near sunset

Glen Helen Gorge near sunset

In the evening, we sat fireside laughing, eating and enjoying the crackle and play of light.  The best part of camping are those fireside moments spent in the company of good friends. After retiring to bed, I was awoken sometime around 4am to the sound of dingoes howling in our camp. A pack stood no further than 3m from our tent. After our dingo visit, I didn't sleep much and rose early, taking my morning coffee to the waters edge watching the changing light and the heat of the day start to build. 

Packing up camp in the heat is never the most enjoyable experience. But it's even worse after a couple of days without a shower! So by the time we arrived at our next destination, I was busting to cool off. We were at Ormiston Gorge. This was my favourite swimming spot of the trip! I will admit, I initially had no intention of swimming - I had left my swimming gear packed away but that has never stopped me before. It was hot, I hadn't showered in a couple of days and the water was so inviting. Warning: it was freezing!!!  But invigorating, uplifting and made me feel wonderfully anew! We spent some time here, basking in the sun and swimming in the gorge. With the camp on the Finke River and a couple of hours spent at Ormiston Gorge, without a doubt, my favourite part of the trip! 

Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole

We also visited Ellery Creek Big Hole, a much larger waterhole with more people. I was spent from my earlier explorations and didn't spend a lot of time here. But the waters were vast and frigid! After getting a few photos, we headed back to the car as it was now time to head to a town called Alice....